The 3rd step of integrated control involves cleaning and sanitizing the environment. This helps eliminate a portion of the immature flea stages. Regular vacuuming is among the most effective ways to speed up the eradication process.
Supplies
Vacuuming & Flea Control
Vacuum before Spraying
Regular vacuuming accelerates the eradication process and reduces the need to excessively apply chemicals. It’s the 3rd step in flea control because it should be done prior to using any sprays, foggers, or powders. Vacuuming lifts up carpet fibers so insecticides can penetrate deeper into the matrix, making them more effective.
Benefits of Vacuumings
Removes & Kills Fleas
Flea populations consist of 50-57% eggs, 34-35% larvae, 8-10% pupae, and 1-5% adults. Adults live and lay eggs on their host. The non-sticky eggs fall off within a few hours, accumulating in rooms where infested pets frequently rest. In homes, 83% of immature fleas live within carpets.
Vacuuming carpets can remove 32-90% of eggs, 15-50% of larvae, 63.8% of pupae, and 95% of emerged adults. Efficacy decreases with higher density carpets. The process of being vacuumed up kills 100% of pre-adult fleas, and 95% of adults. Thus, in most cases, further efforts to sanitize the vacuum’s bag or canister are unnecessary.
Removes Larval Food
Flea larvae consume flea eggs and feces. If larvae can’t find these foods, they’ll starve to death within 3 days of hatching. Vacuuming helps remove some of the larval food from the environment.
Removes Pet Hair & Debris
Organic debris benefits larvae by keeping them hidden and protected in their habitat. Vacuums can remove hair and detritus from carpets to make it less habitable for fleas.
Triggers Cocoon Emergence
After maturing, adult fleas can stay quiescent within their cocoons for up to 5 months. This extended longevity causes control issues. However, the “sleeping” fleas rapidly wake up and exit their cocoons upon detecting heat and physical pressure. These stimuli indicate that a host is resting on the cocoon. Vacuuming can simulate these host cues to force the adults to emerge.
Prevents Cocoon Formation
Flea larvae sometimes pupate without cocoons (naked pupae) if their substrate is shaken. The quiescent state can only occur within a cocoon. Also, without a sticky cocoon, pupae are easier to vacuum up. Beater-bar vacuums may agitate carpets enough to force naked pupae to develop.
How Often to Vacuum
Eggs are the easiest stage to remove with a vacuum. Upon hatching, larvae move deep down into the substrate to avoid light. Larvae are covered in bristles and exhibit coiling behavior when disturbed, which helps them resist removal. Flea cocoons are spun with sticky fibers that get incorporated into carpeting, making pupae difficult to remove also.
Since eggs are removed most easily, it’s best to try to eliminate them before they hatch. In homes, flea eggs hatch 2-3 days after being laid. Thus, it’s recommended to vacuum at least every other day. Continue this routine for at least 8 weeks. Even after proper treatment, fleas will continue emerging from carpets for at least 2 months.
After spraying carpets with insecticide, don’t vacuum until it dries. Some sources recommend waiting a week. However, studies have shown that vacuuming treated carpets doesn’t decrease insecticide activity. Vacuuming may actually increase insecticide performance, by causing cocooned adults to emerge and then contact the insecticide.
Where to Vacuum
When establishing control, thoroughly vacuum the entire home. Rooms favored by cats and dogs will contain the most fleas. Take extra care in places where pets sleep, groom, and eat. For example, animals often rest at the foot or sides of beds in bedrooms, or near sofas in living rooms. These are typical flea hot-spots.
If possible, remove furniture from flea-infested rooms. If not, vacuum beneath furnishing. When eggs fall near furniture, upon hatching, the larvae may seek refuge underneath. Refrigerators can be an overlooked hot-spot, cats may spend time near the warm vent, then eggs and larvae may get swept under the appliance.
Vacuum upholstered furniture, especially if pets rest there. Remove pillows and cushions from the seats. Then vacuum the pieces thoroughly, giving attention to crevices and folds in the fabric.
Don’t neglect rugs or other floor types (e.g. hardwood, tile, linoleum). Focus on cracks in hardwood floors, and crevices around baseboards. It can be beneficial to permanently caulk or seal any obvious cracks or openings.
Vacuums for Flea Control
Other Sanitation Methods to Kill Fleas
Steam-cleaning, Carpet Shampooing, & Mopping
Steam cleaning kills fleas in the environment. It’s a useful technique for eliminating fleas deep within carpets, as well as hard-to-reach areas. Steam cleaners remove more debris than dry vacuums. Likewise, they’re superior at removing and destroying fleas at all stages.
Steam’s high temperature is lethal to fleas. All life stages die when temperatures exceed 100.4°F (38°C). Experiments weren’t done with acute exposure. However, steam’s heat more than doubles any studied temperature. It’s unlikely that fleas could survive exposure.
Steaming is a useful for establishing control, especially in severe infestations with large numbers of fleas. Unfortunately, wet cleaning methods will significantly reduce the residual activity of insecticides. As a result, it’s best to steam clean or carpet shampoo before treating the environment. Once insecticides are applied, then switch to a dry vacuuming routine.
Mopping may be advisable on some floor types, such linoleum, tile, hardwood, or concrete.
Declutter the Home
Untidy rooms are difficult to clean and treat. This can lead to flea control failure. Fleas may be developing under furniture, appliances, and other household items. Basements and closets are especially prone to accumulating clutter. Organizing and decluttering the home will make controlling fleas easier and more efficient.
Laundering Rugs & Bedding
Laundering rugs, bedding, blankets, and pet beds will kill any potential fleas. It’s advisable to wash these items once a week. Set the washer to around 140°F, for 10 minutes. Then dry the items at the highest heat setting. 30 to 40 minutes in the dryer will kill all stages of fleas. One source states that wet items may not get hot enough if washing is done before drying. So, ensure the items are dried thoroughly to kill fleas.
Other Sanitation Tips
Clean and sanitize pet carriers and kennels that have been used recently. Use a stiff-bristled brush with hot, soapy water to disinfect the items. Citrus or pine cleansers are recommended. Give infested pets a rug to sleep on and launder it weekly.
Vacuuming & Sanitation aren’t Enough
Ongoing vacuuming and environmental sanitation are crucial parts of any flea control program. They accelerate the extermination process. However, these measures alone won’t end an infestation, as many immature fleas will escape removal.
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I’ve been fighting fleas all winter. I rescued and adopted 3 cats from my neighborhood, and they’d all been left outdoors to roam by other people.
I treat all with flea meds (which don’t always work thoroughly enough to kill everything) every month and have been doing so since they all came in,
During the warmer months I was able to flea-bomb the apt., but it’s too cold now to bomb and then open windows to ventilate afterwards. One of the cats I adopted is still kind of half feral, and will not let me bathe him or even comb him with a flea comb very much, so he’s the one that has the most fleas. And then of course, the fleas jump from one cat to another.
I comb all the cats as often as possible – every other day at the least, unless something else comes up and I don’t have time. I try to comb at least one or more of them every day. I dip the comb in scalding hot tap water, let it sit for a minute or two, then wipe off the comb with a paper towel, and put it in a closed Ziploc bag before throwing away. I vacuum every spot they spend any time in every day, including cat condos, and take the scratching pads (cardboard) they use outside and beat them against the sidewalk to get rid of any flea debris. I tumble dry all the bedding and towels or blankets they lay on in the dryer for a full cycle about once a week. I put flea powder in the dustbuster and vacuum canister after emptying them. I make sure and empty all that stuff in a separate bag outside of the apt.( to prevent anything that was vacuumed up from getting back into the air during the emptying.) I vacuum the couch and the bedspread all the time. I spray insecticide on the carpet and fabric and condos, and even the scratchers all the time (at least once a week.) Every month when it’s time to re-apply their flea med, I bathe the cats that will let me and then put on the med. The bathing has really helped a lot, and sometimes I think it’s getting rid of as many fleas as the medicine does. The shampoo is just regular cat shampoo; I think that the flea shampoos might be too harsh. I’ve read a lot of reviews online from Amazon of customers whose animals have had a bad allergic reaction or worse illness after using a lot of the products for either shampooing or topical application, so I just avoid them all
together. I use a soothing shampoo with colloidal oatmeal that you leave on for 10 minutes before rinsing (which also helps drown the little suckers.)
I bought a steam cleaner but haven’t had a chance to use it yet, because I’m so busy with doing everything else, that I haven’t had the time to move all the furniture and vacuum and then steam.
I’m exhausted and even with doing all this, the situation continues. I’ll just have to keep doing all this stuff until the weather gets warm enough to be able to open the windows so that I can bomb again and ventilate afterwards.
My sincerest condolences to all you others who are going through this.
Kate