Summary
Siphotrol Plus II by Vet Kem is an insecticidal premise spray. It controls fleas and other indoor pests. Pyrethrins rapidly kill adult fleas. And (s)-methoprene stops eggs and larvae from becoming adults. Methoprene remains active indoors for 7 months to prevent re-infestation.
Siphotrol Plus II
Siphotrol Plus II controls and prevents fleas indoors for 7 months.
Other premise sprays are similar to Siphotrol in terms of active ingredient formulation. Thus, performance is comparable. The primary difference is price, with Precor 2000 Plus offering the best value.
| Product name | Siphotrol Plus II Premise Spray |
| Active ingredients | 0.085% (s)-methoprene 0.350% permethrin 0.300% phenothrin 2.000% MGK 264 1.400% piperonyl butoxide 95.865% other ingredients |
| Target pest | Fleas & ticks |
| Kills | Adults, eggs & larvae |
| Duration | 7 months |
| Size | 16 ounces |
| Capacity | 2000 sq ft |
| Application | Aerosol spray |
| Use on | Home premises |
| Manufacturer | Vet-Kem |
| UPCs | 041535063023 041535608002 885179920751 |
| Product label | view |
| MSDS | view |
| Shop | Amazon.com |
| Price | $21 |
| Customer reviews | Read reviews |
| Competitors | Browse premise sprays |
- Prices are based on Amazon.com at time of publishing.
Details
How Siphotrol Plus II Works
Methoprene
The most important ingredient in Siphotrol Plus II is (s)-methoprene (also called Precor). Methoprene is an insect growth regulator (IGR). It works by mimicking naturally occurring hormones in insects, specifically juvenile hormone. When exposed to an IGR, young insects can’t molt into the next stage of life. For example, flea eggs and larvae can’t complete their metamorphosis into adults. In addition, adult females are sterilized and can’t lay viable eggs.
The bulk of flea populations (95-99%) consist of eggs, larvae, and pupae. These immature fleas reside in the environment, usually at the base of carpeting. Adulticides are ineffective at killing these stages, because sprays can’t penetrate deep into carpets and they have a short-lived effect. IGRs are better suited because they remain active for 7 months indoors. The long-lasting residual activity is crucial for controlling fleas on troublesome surfaces. IGRs are also considered safer than conventional insecticides, because they mimic hormones that are rarely found outside of insects.
Permethrin & Phenothrin
The adulticides in Siphotrol are permethrin and phenothrin. These are two pyrethroids, a class of synthetic insecticides based on a botanical compound found in Chrysanthemum flowers (pyrethrum). Pyrethroids are commonly employed to kill adult fleas and other domestic insect pests. These insecticides are neurotoxins. They affect the insect’s nervous system by causing spasms, paralysis, and ultimately death.
When Siphotrol Plus II is sprayed, emerged adult fleas in the environment will be quickly killed. Unfortunately, only 1-5% of fleas will be in the adult stage. And once they find their way onto a host, the adults stay there. Thus, few adult fleas will be in carpets at any given time. This is why adulticides are less important than the IGR.
Many immature stages within carpets won’t be affected by the adulticides. The carpet matrix provides refuge from insecticide penetration and vacuum removal. As a result, the fleas currently developing in the environment may survive to emerge as adults. This can give the false impression that the spray didn’t work. However, the immature fleas living in the carpet will be the last generation. Any new eggs falling onto the IGR-treated carpets won’t develop.
MGK 264 & Piperonyl butoxide
Synergists don’t have insecticidal properties, but they boost the potency of pyrethroids. As a result, they’re often found together in pest products. Synergists allow less insecticide to be used, which results in safer and cheaper products. The two most common synergists are piperonyl butoxide and N-octyl bicycloheptene dicarboximide (MGK 264). Both are included in Siphotrol Plus II.
Precor 2000 Plus
Precor 2000 Plus is slightly cheaper than Siphotrol Plus II (may change).
Competitor Comparison
Siphotrol’s main competitors are Precor 2000 Plus, PT Ultracide, and Virbac Knockout. All of these products are aerosol premise sprays with similar active ingredients formulations. Price is the most noteworthy difference between them, and Precor 2000 Plus is the cheapest choice by a small margin.
Instructions
The following instructions were taken from the product label of Siphotrol Plus II. Before using the product, view the label for the full directions and precautionary statements.
READ ENTIRE LABEL BEFORE USE. NOT FOR USE ON HUMANS OR PETS.
Directions for Use
It is a violation of Federal Law to use this product in a manner inconsistent with its labeling.
SHAKE WELL BEFORE USING
FOR USE IN THE HOME/GARAGE/KENNEL
1. Identify treatment areas, especially those where pets frequent, such as in and around pet’s sleeping and resting areas. These are the primary areas where fleas, their eggs, and ticks are found. Before treatment, make a test application to upholstery, drapery, light-colored, delicate fabrics, or wood surfaces in an inconspicuous place.
2. Prepare treatment areas. Cover all food processing surfaces and utensils during treatment or thoroughly wash after product use. Cover or remove exposed food. Remove pets and cover and unplug aquariums before spraying. Remove motor vehicles before using in garages. For best results with Surface/Carpet treatments, vacuum thoroughly before spraying and discard vacuum bag in outside trash. This product may also be used for infested surfaces inside motor vehicles.
3. Apply treatment. For flea/tick infestations, a single can treats 2,000 square feet. Hold container upside down 2-3 feet from surface, point actuator towards the surface, and push button. Using a sweeping motion, apply a light uniform spray to all surfaces of furniture, rugs, carpets, drapes, and around all pet resting areas. Avoid thoroughly wetting surfaces. Mist treated areas only until “slightly damp”. Do not over-treat. Reapply in 14 days, if necessary. IMPORTANT: Only complete and proper application to carpets, upholstery, drapes, and other fabrics will provide thorough flea/tick elimination. Keep people and pets out of areas during treatment. Vacate room after treatment and ventilate until surfaces are dry before reoccupying.
4. For best results, eliminate fleas/ticks on your pet with appropriate Vet Kem® on-animal products
Storage and Disposal
Storage: Store in a cool, dry area. Do not transport or store below 32° F. Disposal: Do Not Puncture or Incinerate! If empty: Place in trash or offer for recycling if available. If partly filled: Call your local solid waste agency for disposal instructions.
Tips for Success
Target Hot-Spots
Flea eggs can fall anywhere the infested pet roams, but most will accumulate where the animal spends a lot of time. Flea hot-spots tend to occur where pets sleep, groom, and eat. In bedrooms, most fleas are found at the side or foot of beds, where animals sleep. Similarly, flea-prone areas in living rooms are often found next to sofas or animal bedding.
Spray the entire floor in infested rooms with a premise spray. However, give special attention to the potential hot-spots. And if follow-up treatments are needed, spraying can be limited to places where the majority of adult fleas are emerging.
Have Realistic Expectations
It’s important to have realistic expectations about flea control. No product or method will end an infestation immediately. Many immature stages develop deep within carpets, where sprays and vacuums can’t reach. Before the fleas are completely eradicated, all of these environmental stages must mature, emerge, and die. Usually it takes around 2 months before an infestation ends. This is why pet treatments are continued for multiple months.
After spraying Siphotrol Plus II, new eggs falling onto the floors shouldn’t be able to survive. However, a large portion of the young fleas already in the carpeting may be unaffected. They will eventually mature and emerge as the last generation of adults. Seeing these new adults can falsely make users think that premise sprays don’t work.
Pre-Emerged Adults
Pre-emerged adult fleas are a big control issue. After maturing, cocooned adults can enter into a quiescent (dormant-like) state for up to 5 months. However, they’ll quickly wake up and emerge upon detecting a host on the cocoon (heat and pressure). Vacuuming is a good way to simulate these host cues and trigger emergence.
Vacuuming Procedure
Vacuum carpets before spraying. Vacuuming will lift up the carpet fibers so the insecticide can penetrate deeper. Wait for the spray to dry before vacuuming again. Then vacuum at least every other day. Studies have shown that vacuuming shouldn’t reduce the efficacy of flea insecticides. Vacuuming may actually improve efficacy, as it causes cocooned adults to emerge into the adulticide which has a short-lived effect.
Premise Sprays Aren’t Enough
Adult fleas account for 1-5% of infestations and live on pets. Once they acquire a host, they won’t leave by choice. So, even with carpets treated, the adults will continue to thrive on untreated dogs or cats. Each female lays around 25 eggs a day. Flea eggs will drop wherever the pets roam. If they fall onto an untreated surface, then the infestation will continue.
This is why an integrated approach is the best way to control fleas. Treat the environment, treat pets, and establish a regular vacuuming routine. This kind of regime will result in establishing control quickly, and it will be easiest to maintain control until eradication.
You must log in to post a comment. Log in now.
I have a full 16oz can of Siphotrol plus ii spray. I know it’s over 1-1/2 years old.
What is the shelf life of this product?
Have sudden and very bad flea infestation!
Thank you
I am not sure about the shelf life. The most important ingredient for flea control in the product is (s)-methoprene (also called Precor). I just did a quick Google search for “(s)-methoprene shelf life” and it looks like most products containing it state a 2 or 3 year shelf-life.
Does it kill the OTHER stage of a flea? The pupae stage?
Is there anything that will
Pupae and cocooned adults (and larvae already existing in the carpets at the time of application) are the problem stages of fleas. Unfortunately, there is little that can be done to eliminate pupal fleas besides waiting for them to emerge as adults. This is because many reside at the base of carpets (or other refuges) where the insecticides can’t penetrate. Vacuuming is the most helpful thing to do to speed up their emergence.
If the carpet gets wet in a 3×3 area will it wash the Siphotrol away. I got the carpet wet a week after spraying. Thanks
Wet carpet cleaning or steam cleaning can reduce the efficacy of insecticides. However, if water was simply spilled on the carpets, then I wouldn’t think the insecticides would be too diluted and it shouldn’t reduce the residual effect much. It probably depends on how the water got on the carpets, and how much water. But I have no exact answer.
We discovered fleas at the end of August. We’ve used 2 cans of the premise spray 2000, our cats and dog have been treated with Advantage II, (2 doses), we vacuum every other day, sometimes every day and i am still finding new fleas (around the house, and on pets). Is there something i am doing wrong? Or is it just a matter of time? I feel like i am going crazy!
Michelle, it sounds like you are doing everything correctly. It can take a while for the infestation to end, usually around 8 weeks. It can take longer in severe infestations or if the infestation went unnoticed for a while. Since you are only around 5 weeks in, it’s normal that you are still seeing fleas appear. However, their numbers should be diminishing. Have you noticed a decline in the number of fleas?
SIphotrol is the only product that really got rid of the fleas.
It also works on silverfish and ants, even pharaoh ant! and those like **&^ are harder to get rid of than fleas, but at least don’t bit.
DAMN i hate bugs!
Buy this, it’s AWESOME!!!
How long do I need to stay out of my apartment before I can go back in
For liability reasons, I can only advise you follow the labeled instructions. The directions say: Avoid thoroughly wetting surfaces. Mist treated areas only until “slightly damp”. Do not over-treat. Keep people and pets out of areas during treatment. Vacate room after treatment and ventilate until surfaces are dry before reoccupying.
How quickly the spray dries will vary depending on the user. Environmental conditions like ambient temperature and relative humidity will play a role. Drying time will also depend on how much individual users spray, as some will get the carpets damper than others. In general, treated carpets will likely dry in 3 to 6 hours.
I have bought Siphotrol spray , but when I spray white circles of liquid drop to the floor , leaking from the can , what am I doing wrong ?
Thank you .
It sounds like it may just be an issue with the can. I won’t be able to help much. If it’s a malfunction with the can, I’d recommend contacting the retailer or the manufacturer (Wellmark International). Or, on the label, it says to call 1-800-766-7661 for product use information.
Are you holding the can upside down, as the instructions say? “Hold container upside down 2-3 feet from surface, point actuator towards the surface, and push button.”
I mostly have hardwood floors. How long do I need to wait before I can damp mop the floors? And basement floors? And what about having upholstery professionally cleaned?
It usually takes around 8 weeks for flea infestations to end. And the insect growth regulator in the spray (methoprene) will remain active for 7 months to help prevent future infestation.
Mopping the floors (or other wet cleaning) will reduce the efficacy of the spray. I don’t have any specific, established advice for how long to wait before you clean with water. But I think it would be best to wait at least 8 weeks. If you do it sooner, it would be a good idea to re-treat the surfaces, especially flea hot-spots (cracks in the flooring, around baseboards, and other areas where debris collects, especially in rooms and locations where the dog or cat liked hanging around). In the meantime, dry vacuuming is the better option if you want to ensure the insecticides remain active.
The same goes for getting the upholstery professionally cleaned. I am not sure the techniques they use, but if they are wet cleaning, then it would be a good idea to re-treat afterwards.
I have a new infestation, it started 2- 3 weeks ago when items were brought into my home & 3 days later I felt the first flea bite. I put advantage 11 on my cat at that time, & twice more, the last yesterday when the fleas began attacking my cat & I relentlessly. I had used 5 advantage bug fogger bombs about 10 days ago. But after I came in & aired out the house for a little over an hour & came back, I was still feeling fleas. So I have been vacuuming 4 times a day, taking the canister outside & emptying it, tieing it & putting it in the outside trash can. and today my son baught Siphotrol premise spray that I’m preparing to apply now, waiting until 10 pm because they seem heavier at night. I have been using REPEL on me but my poor cat is being attacked even though last night I applied advantage 11 to her. I’m going to do under the furniture where bombs don’t reach. Do I need to do rooms that I do not use? The litter box sits by 1 of the doors, and my doors have a 3 or 4 ” opening at the bottoms, I’m in a mobile home. I have nerve damage & all of the vacuuming with a crevice tool to the baseboards & kitchen floor, furniture, bed, etc is overwhelming. It’s exhausting fighting them, as I also had them in the summer. I faught & won after months only to have them reintroduced into my home. Any advice or recommendations you could give me would be greatly appreciated. Do I need to turn the gas & appliances that cycle on & off when I spray the Siphotrol as you would with foggers?
Thank you
Melissa, sorry to hear about your flea problem.
You should apply the spray to any rooms where the cat may have roamed. The eggs are on laid on the cat, but they aren’t sticky and fall off within a few hours. So, eggs and developing fleas would only be found in areas visited by the cat.
You shouldn’t need to vacuum more than once every other day. Here’s an article more about vacuuming for fleas.
I don’t think you need to turn off any gas appliances, because directed sprays won’t fill the room with particulates like foggers do. But read and adhere to whatever the instructions say. Also, please see our page on flea foggers, which explains why directed sprays are more effective.
Keep using the Advantage II for the labeled duration (usually at least 3 months), without a lapse in treatment. Vacuum regularly (see link above). The methoprene in the siphotrol plus is the most important ingredient. It will prevent eggs and larvae from reaching adulthood for 7 months, which is useful for preventing re-infestation. For any sprays or foggers you use in the future, make sure they contain an insect growth regulator (IGR), either methoprene or pyriproxyfen.
Lastly, ensure you have realistic expectations for how quickly the infestation will resolve. It usually takes at least 8 weeks. This is because all of the immature stages living in the environment need to mature, emerge, and die when they jump on the treated cat. While environmental chemicals and sanitation efforts can help kill some of these stages, they won’t kill them all. Some patience will be required.
Will this product work on deer ticks ? It says on the bottle it only kills brown and American ticks.
It should work on deer ticks (Ixodes scapularis). Permethrin is the primary tick-killing ingredient (acaricide) contained within Siphotrol Plus II. I did some quick research, and there are studies showing that permethrin is effective against Ixodes scapularis. Perhaps Siphotrol wasn’t tested against deer ticks, so the label can’t specifically claim it works against them.
We have a flea problem and would like to buy this product but we are scared because we have several cats and one dog. We have nothing but laminate flooring and we are worried that if we spray this on our laminate floor and it gets wet again because our dog is a sloppy water drinker, will it become poisonous again? Im worried about them walking on the wet spot and then licking their paws and getting very sick.
I’d recommend contacting the manufacturer for specific information regarding toxicity concerns. This is the phone number they provide on the label: 1-800-766-7661.
How long should the spray come out of the Siphotrol Plus Fogger?
I am not sure what you mean. One can should be able to treat 2,000 square feet with a mist (not thoroughly wetting).
I have a lot of plants in my home. Will Siphotrol Plus II harm them? Or should I remove the plants?
I think plants should be fine, though I am not absolutely certain. I’ve never come across anything stating that the active ingredients would affect plants. And the product label does not contain any warnings or instructions related to plants.
I’m pregnant. Is this safe to use in my house?
I am not qualified to give you a definite answer on this. However, here is the MSDS for Siphotrol, which has some information on developmental toxicity.
If I’m setting off a Siphortrol (Vet-Kem) fogger in addition to spraying hard to reach areas, can I put the cats in the basement during the dispursement/drying time? Is that far enough removed from the product? We found fleas on our dog and indoor/outdoor cat, I have no idea how long we’ve been harboring these fugitives but I want them gone. The cat was treated with Advantage ll and the dog with Frontline, guessing were potentially battling some flea resistance now and will be changing preventive products. Everyone has been Capstar’ed, but I know that’s only effective for around 24 hours. I’m extremely overwhelmed.
I am not sure how far your basement is from where you are spraying/bombing, but it would probably be best to completely remove the animals from the home during the treatment and drying times, just to be safe.
So far there have been no documented cases of flea resistance to the ingredients you’ve mentioned. It sounds like you are taking most of the correct steps to end an infestation. However, be sure to vacuum regularly as part of the control process. It will speed up the eradication.
Last year an exterminator used this in my house. One of my cats had a seizure same day, and died a week later.. I used it upstairs last week, one of my cats has been hiding and was ok one day and I found dying the next. Could this have been from this spray?
I am not qualified to say what caused the cat’s ailments. Though the spray should be safe to use when adhering to the instructions on the label. However, permethrin, an ingredient in this product, is highly toxic to cats. Personally, I wouldn’t use any product containing permethrin as a cat owner.
We just moved into a new house and within 2 days I have 54 bites and have more severe reactions than many people with insect bites. I used 3 flea bombs with all the same ingredients this has, and sprayed with flea spray. The second we re entered the house 3 jumped on me. Our house is filled with boxes and tubs full of stuff including tons of bags and bins of clothing. We were told today by the previous tenant that the basement is badly infested with fleas and has been for a long time. We have no pets and no carpet. How do I effectively kill them and quickly with boxes full of stuff everywhere and how do I keep the basement clear of them afterwards as well? I’m planning on getting DE, borax, and siphotrol tomorrow and using them all everywhere. If we have to do all the laundry in the boxes and bags we’re looking at a good 100+ loads between clothes and linens. Can they live through this stuff if they jump in the boxes and hide? And what’s the most effective way to use it on beds, couches, and hardwood floors? They are literally everywhere. We just moved in 3 days ago. It’s extremely bad and I cannot have my child in here til they’re gone with how badly I’m getting bitten up. Can fleas bite through tight clothes if I wear pants and long sleeves and socks 24/7? I can’t handle any more bites this needs to be taken care of ASAP. Also these are smaller fleas than I’ve ever seen on a dog before. Smaller than a fruit fly. Is it a specific type?
I am so sorry to hear about your situation. The previous tenant should have treated for the fleas there, or at least warned you before you moved in!
There must be a host somewhere living in the basement for them to be able to survive. For example, a stray cat, raccoon, or opossum. Or they may be rodent fleas, and there are mice or rats in the basement. Getting rid of the host, or blocking the host from entering the basement, will be an important step.
The most effective way to use the control measures is to target areas that are dark and protected. This is where immature stages develop, and they account for 95-99% of infestations. Adults only make up 1-5% of the population. Target cracks and crevices on the floor, and other areas where debris collects such as floor corners. The insect growth regulator in the spray will prevent immature stages from becoming adults, and will last 7 months.
The adults escaping treatment is a possibility, but shouldn’t be a huge concern. They can only live for around a week without a host.
Here is a page on Can fleas bite through clothes.
Most fleas species are 1-3 mm long. They double in size once they are engorged on host blood. The fleas you are seeing likely can’t find a host and are starving, which is why they are small.
I think your primary concern should be finding and eliminating the animal host. Ask the previous tenant if they kept animals down there.